2016 Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob – Test Ride and Review – South San Francisco

2016 harley davidson dyna street
2016 harley davidson dyna street

This is the brand new 2016 Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob. I perform an indepth walk around, and explain the key features and the riding experience, and rev the engine to hear what it sounds like. I film this in the Industrial location of South San Francisco.

I discuss the new 103 cubic engine in the 2016 Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob.

About Craig Ballantyne 21419 Articles
I love anything to do with Harley Davidson and have two beautiful children and a beautiful partner. In my spare time i like building websites and love anything to do with the internet.


  1. Audrius N: I can tell you are a bit psycho alright……..cause you just make personal attacks, why don't you stand up and tell us what you love about the Twin Cam engine….is it the pressed together flywheel, which can twist out of true and crater the engine? Or is it all the PLASTIC cam chain tensioners, that are designed to wear out and failure to do so, will crater the engine? Or is it the weak stock dry sump oiling system of the Twinkies that makes them run hot enough to burn your family jewels, if you had any………come on, pal……..let's hear all you know that's great about the Twin Cam engine……………what's a matter, cat got your 5 foot long, snake's tongue?

  2. Man, you know, it's a shame to push that brand new engine till the rev limiter!!! HD engines are not built to run fast!

  3. The fact that your pinion shaft run out is at 0.004", means that your crankshaft has already twisted on you. They are set at the factory to a max stock run out at 0.001" or less, max. Harley knows that they have a problem, with their crankshafts, so, rather than fix them at the factory, by simply putting a crank pin bolt and nut, to torque both halves together, as they used to do for many, many decades on all the single cam big twin engines……they simply changed the service manual specs, years ago…… to say that it is okay for the run out to be out a max a 0.010"-0.012"…….which any competent H-D, mechanic, will tell you will damage the bushings, bearings, oil pumps, cam bearings, etc. and will eventually crater the engine……..that is why one cannot convert from silent /roller chain drive to gear drive to operate the cams, if your crank is at 0.003" or more in pinion shaft run out, which yours is already well beyond that out of true. I recommend tearing your engine down and taking your crankshaft to a competent, performance specialty shop, to have it disassembled, have the connecting rods, check for roundness, balance the crank flywheels, re-assemble it and have it dynamically trued and TIG-weld the welch plugs and true it to have the output and pinion shaft run out set at 0.001" or less in run out……


  5. geeze kid, if you like it just come out and say so.    good vid, I really enjoyed you have fun on that bike. what do you think of the narrow front tire? as an old fellow who still thinks about turning the spark advance when I start my '15 roadglide I still pick up a few new tricks from you younger set. but truth be known, the main reason I watch these vids is to hear that sound. that engine can bring me peace when there Is little peace in my head. I was a little cracked when I left for my vacation in southeast asia, when I came back there was less of me and more of something else. not sayin' this to pizz and moan, but to show a little of what these mean when I say thanks for taking the time out of your day so that I can hear that sound and see the road, when it's too cold to have a ride here.

  6. True, how true……..a man has to know his limitations, and the law of physics, and how it works…..and Murphy's Law: "what can go wrong, will go wrong"……sooner or later……..for a man reaps what he has sown…….sow the wind, reap the whirlwind……….

  7. Remember, you have two, small pad tensioners, one on the outboard side of the cam support plate and one on the inside of the cam support plate, hope you changed out both of the pad tensioners at the same time, as they have the same mileage and wear on them. Not worth, the risk of cratering your engine, if you only changed on of those, $70..00 tensioners. Double  check with the "stealership", to see that they changed out both pads………..and have them back it up with proof……..always ask for them to give you the pads that they replaced……..as evidence they addressed both pads……the inboard pad is often overlooked for wear, because to do a proper inspection you have to take the cam support plate and the two camshafts out………you were fortunate to have not cratered the engine…….

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